We headed off on the evening of December 30th, after a relaxing day at home ( and after the Aussie cricketers capitulated in the Melbourne test - WE WANT BLOOD!). We caught the bus to the airport. The day was really hazy, so we were able to look directly at the sun through the haze, which looked huge and orange. The airport was really quiet, 'cause Cardiff Airport is a big package tour and business hub. We checked in on-line, so made very sure of the measurements of our carry on luggage. BUT the measurements on-line didn't match the measurements the airline used at the airport. Talk about a rip! £20 later, after having to check in Matt's luggage and Kathy getting really cranky with having to cram her handbag in to her bag. We were talking to another passenger whose bag was allowed on as carry on in Edinburgh, and who wasn't allowed to carry it on from Cardiff. So why does bmibaby have different gauges at the different airports?!?!?
After dramas at the airport and a fairly uneventful trip, we get to Edinburgh. And it was frosty - frost on roof tops, frozen cars, the works. Brrrrrr. We get to the hotel, check in and go up to our room. It's huge, and the bathroom is huge. We open the curtains and see a castle!
How fantastic was that! All lit up on the top of it's rock. It was brilliant.
After checking in, we head out to find dinner (an OK Indian, but too rich) and wandered around in the cold for an our or so. We walked down near the Castle (it's hard to avoid),
found our way to Princes Street, and the Christmas Carnival. It was so much better than the one Cardiff had - lots more rides, and bigger.
Preparations for the next night were well in train, and those poor blokes were working hard in the cold and dark. Well, not completely dark with the lights from the Carnival, and also in the trees and shrubs. With the trees, the lights were up the trunk and along the main branches, which looked pretty amazing.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped in to a pub for a drink to warm up (whisky, of course). Odd little pub - all old blokes. We walked past the next afternoon and there was a mobility scooter parked outside, which gives you an idea of the type of place it was. We didn't stay for long, so it was back to the hotel and off to bed.
31 December
The day dawned cold, grey and misty. Breakfast was at a nice cafe, then we stopped in to an ATM - hooray, we'd been paid!! Then we went off to look at the Castle.
When we got there, after walking up the hill (well, a granite plug - imagine having to build the Castle, lugging stone all the way up there)
and up lots of steps,
we were soooooo glad Kathy had bought entry tickets on line. There was a massive, huge queue for tickets, so we felt very smug walking past and in. Did you know that there'd been a fortress there since 600AD? Just spectacular. It also held prisoners of war, from the American war, through the Napoleonic wars right up to WWI. We saw the Honours of Scotland (the former Scottish Crown Jewels), and the Stone of Destiny!! And the Museum of the Royal Scots Guards, which was pretty amazing - the regiment in it's various forms goes back to the 17th century.
and the one o-clock gun which goes off at, oddly enough, 1pm every day. We were standing watching the soldier preparing for the blast. We were waiting,
waiting,
waiting... then it went off!
Matt jumped just a bit
And there were Aussies everywhere!! Sydney was the last time we came across so many Aussies. What gives? And not just gap year backpackers, but people right up to their 50's and 60's.
The Castle was also in a state of chaos, with preparations for the party that night - both the official party and the unofficial party for the regimental officers stationed there. There were big fireworks cannisters on the ramparts,
After wandering around the Castle and the top part of the Royal Mile for 2 or 3 hours, we sat down and had a refresher at a pub called the Jilly Judge, where we had McEwans 80. Small wee pub, but quite cute. Lunch was at Whiski, where we had haggis, tatties and neeps, Bullmans Best Bitter, and finished off with a glass of Oban for and a glass of Laphroig for Kathy. We thought Haggis was just delish. Yes, it's rich and offally, but that's the point. It's savoury and spicy, and great on a cold day.
After lunch we wandered around to walk it off,
popped in to a couple more pubs, then headed back to the hotel to change and get our zillions of layers on. After layering up, we had dinner at a Thai restaurant, and felt a bit underdressed, especially when a pair of guys sat down near us, very spiffy in their formal kilts. Hmmmmm. Anyway, the food was great. We had heaps of time before the Hogmanay kicked off, so we went to a couple of pubs to get the party started. One of the pubs reminded Kathy a lot of the Opera Bar, which used to be in Wellington - it was the age mix of the crowd, the mutton dressed as lamb, the music... scary flashback.
The party venue had lots of people there, of course.
We got very confused about how to get in, but finally got there. We bought tickets to the celidh - Scottish country dances.
It was down in the gardens off Princes Street, in a bit of a bowl (apparently it's drained swamp). Matt wanted to have a go at dancing, but Kathy couldn't get the courage up, as people seemed to be taking things very seriously and most knew all the dances. So we watched and enjoyed the atmosphere. Mulled wine and beer helped.... Close to midnight we wanted to get up higher to see the fireworks, so we walked up to the entry point, and just in time, too. The fireworks shot off from the Castle, and they were pretty spectacular (not as spectacular as Sydney New Year, but pretty good).
We enjoyed them, and a big hug and kiss in the cold. After the fireworks, we decided to head back to the hotel, and the walk back took ages. Matt had to queue for simply ages to go to the toilet (Kathy hung on). This may just be a sign that we're getting older and a bit more mature, but we feel we have to comment on a couple of people we saw - touch of sympathy and concern: There was a really pissed girl walking the same way we were - she was hanging off her boyfriend's arm (or was he dragging her along by the hand? We couldn't decide), and her handbag was hanging off the other arm, or what was left of it. It was open, and it looked as though she'd lost her purse, phone, keys, the lot. Poor thing. The other thing was this young chap. We were nearly at the hotel, when we heard running footsteps behind us. This young bloke went haring past us, and bumped past Matt, 'Bastard', we thought, until we caught up with him leaning up against a wall - blood was pouring down his face, and he looked really shook up. He refused our help, so we think he got pissed and got biffed by someone. Poor lad. The night ended with Matt ringing Sheeds to wish him all the best for the New Year. Nothing like a drunk call to your mate half way around the world to start things off.
On the 1st, we decided to breakfast at the hotel. Kathy had real Scottish porridge, and some fruit, while Matt decided to listen to his inner demons and had black pudding AND haggis with his bacon.
In an effort to walk off our breakfast, after checking out of the hotel we walked back up towards the Castle, and visited the Camera Obscura. It was really, really excellent! Apart of course from viewing the Camera Obscura, there were a lot of other displays, such as plasma balls, holograms, tricks of the eye, and so on. It was fantastic! Matt had not laughed so much, or so loud for ages. One really cool thing was a flash screen, which you stood face towards the screen, and a bright light flashed and left your shadow on the screen for ages. Very cool. Brilliant for kids of all ages.
After that, we just wandered. We had thought of going to an exhibit of a part of the town which had been blocked up during a plague (with people still alive in it when it was blocked up, so they starved to death - charming!) and which is said to be haunted, but it was fully booked out. Our smugness from the day before rapidly wore off. By this time we were starting to get a bit foot sore and hungry, so we found and tried a pub that the Lonely Planet had recommended - the Royal Mile. The Lonely Planet said they served good food. When we got there we were told that the kitchen would be opening in 20 minutes. Cool, no worries, we ordered a beer and sat down to wait. An hour later and the kitchen was still closed. So we left, and found something elsewhere. Poor show guys. Anyway, we ended up having a light lunch, with more haggis and some mulled wine. By this time the sun was out for the very first time on our trip. So we headed back up to the Castle to take some more photos, just as the sun was starting to set.
Our airport dramas continued. Because we were unable to check in on line, we turned up at the airport early so that we could check in and sort out the luggage thing (we knew that we'd have to pay for check-in, so we didn't mind that). But.... check in wasn't open. We were only 2 hours before departure! Don't cheapo airlines always tell their passengers to turn up about that time?!?!? Sigh! Anyway, when the check-in desk eventually opened, the ladies were lovely and helpful, and we were able to carry on both of our bags. On the way in to Edinburgh we'd spied a champagne bar. So, after passing through security we made a bee-line for that - to sooth our harried nerves, you understand! Mmmmm, half bottle of Veuve Clicquot and a yummy seafood platter for 2 later (mmm, smoked salmon and gravalax), nerves were soothed, tummies were full, and it was time to make our way to the gate.
Getting home after our adventures, and the house was FREEZING COLD. It didn't warm up until the next afternoon, but that's OK. We'd had a great time, ate a lot, drank sufficient (not quite enough whisky, though), and will put a return visit to Eginburgh on our list of things to do.