Wednesday 7th
We had a leisurely start, despite discovering that Kathy had ordered and bought tickets to only Level 2 on the Eiffel Tower not Level 3. Matt bought us a yummy lunch from the local deli of frittata and quiches, and a lovely Pinot Noir from the local wine merchant. What a delicious way to start our holiday! We were picked up by Paul (thanks Paul!), who took us to the airport. After the 'joys' of Cardiff Airport we were off!!!
Unfortunately we landed at Charles de Gaulle at the same time as a flight from Korea, but the French border authorities were quick and efficient and we got through without too much pain. We found the RER (train) station and bought return tickets to the station in Paris we were aiming for. Then the entry gates stranded Matt on one side and his luggage on the other. Not helpful – imagine having to deal with that after a long haul flight! Fortunately some very helpful Parisians rescued him, and we were off. Oh. My. God. If you thought the tube got packed, you should try the RER – we were absolutely crammed in and people didn't move to let us out at our stop. AAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!
We got out of the station, found our hotel, checked in and got changed before heading back out to the Eiffel Tower! We got directions to the station from the hotel staff and were told how many stops on the RER, but when we got to the station we couldn't find where to buy tickets. By this stage time was running away from us. Panicking we found a ticket machine on the other side of the river and leapt on to a train. Unfortunately we weren't prepared for the clarity of signage in French RER stations. We got on to the right line, but going in the wrong direction! That's after the turnstile to get to the platform nearly emasculated Matt. After getting directions from another very helpful Parisian we eventually got on the right train, going in the right direction. Not without further drama though as a lady slipped getting on at another station after getting her children on to the train, with her leg going in between the train and the platform edge – as the doors were closing! She was OK though, not seriously hurt.
We got to the Eiffel Tower with 15 minutes to spare before going up at 9.30pm. We found the shortest queue and, after Matt taking some photos,
The view up underneath the Tower
we were finally up the Tower. It was BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!!!
We were there for sunset,
and had some incredible views over the city.
Picnickers in one of Paris's gardens
The views included watching large crowds who were watching the Spain v Germany semi final.
One thing we weren't so impressed by were our fellow tourists. They were so rude- pushing people out of the way, queue jumping.... In the lift on the way down was a screaming baby, which didn't help the nerves – but did met out some justice on queue jumpers who were in the same lift! We didn't realise it until we got to the ground, but while we were up there the lights came on – it was an absolutely brilliant start to our trip.
It's not really a spotlight - see, there are 2 lights!
Once back at ground level we found a place nearby for steak frite and vin Rouge. It was great, if slightly touristy. Part way through our meal the area erupted with lots of very happy Spanish fans, beeping horns in vehicles, blowing whistles and screaming and shouting. Where did all these Spaniards come from?!? And why weren't any of them seriously injured from hanging out of car windows waving flags? Ah, never mind. We had a great meal, finishing about midnight and walked back to the hotel afterwards. It took us about 90 minutes, partly because of the distances and partly because we kept stopping to take photos in the lovely balmy night.
Thursday 8th
Today was our 10th wedding anniversary!!
We had breakfast at the hotel (meh) and then headed off
Pont Neuf
Kathy with the Conciergerie behind her
to Notre Dame.
Wow, wow, wow. What a AMAZING cathedral. We got there just after 10am, which was a good thing, because the crowds of tour groups and heat increased while we were there. Notre Dame is an incredible building, and is very well preserved.
Vaulted arches behind the high altar
Part of a wood panel portraying Christ's last few days
The rose windows have to be seen to be believed.
Inside it was quite noisy, because of the crowds. Pity, because it nearly drowned out the recording of plainsong which was playing. The outside of the building is just as beautiful (gotta love those incredible flying buttresses – so delicate but so strong). We walked right around the outside of the cathedral and got some amazing photos.
Next we walked to the Conciergerie,
which used to be part of the old royal palace and was used as a prison during the revolution. Actually, we walked around, and around, trying to find it. We got lost, but did find some places to go back to for lunch. Eventually we found it – very discrete signs as the building is part of the Palais de Justice. The Conciergerie is the old royal palace (until the king moved to the Louvre in the 14th century) and the public has access to the Hall of the Guards,
The most incredible staircase we've seen so far
so were ideal for their use as a prison later. The prison held Marie Antoinette – and 2 Bergers (they were farmers),
whose names we found in a list of all of those who were sent to the guillotine.
It was pretty cool.
By this time it was time for lunch. And what a beautiful lunch it was, too. I think it was at a place called
in the Place Dauphine. Kathy had white asparagus and duck, Matt had foie gras and steak tartar. We started with glasses of Louis Roderer Champagne and drank a beautiful Chateau Romassan Domaines OTT Bandol 2009 rose. It was beautiful.
Matt, with the Seine behind him
The street near our hotel
Back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before going out for the evening. Matt decided he wanted to walk up to Monmartre, and Kathy wore the wrong shoes for such a walk. We wandered around for a bit, then found a couple of places for a drink (one good, one not quite so) and to sit and watch the world go by. Eventually we started getting peckish, so we wandered off to find somewhere for dinner. We ended up at a place called La Tour L on the rue Saint Augustin. More champagne, and what looks on the bill as being a Cote Rotie 2004? Not sure as we forgot to write it down exactly before it was decanted and the bottle taken away. Kathy had foie gras and steak, and Matt had escargot and steak. Yes, we both ate steak but had them cooked in different ways. Crème brulee and sorbet, then coffee to finish. It was again another wonderful meal, and another full, rich day.
A fountain we saw on our wandering
Look what we walked past!
What a wonderful, fabulous 10th anniversary.
Friday 9th
Up early today, and off to the Louvre before the worst of the crowds.
What a magnificent building! It's a work of art just on its own.
We arrived through one of the courtyards,
so were able to see the glass pyramids from the rear.
Rear
Front
The crowds weren't too horrific, so getting through security and buying tickets wasn't too bad.
Crowds
Some of the ceiling frescoes
Our plan of attack was to see some of the paintings, but first we had to visit the Venus de Milo.
She's beautiful. She's lit naturally from one side, so there is lovely light and shadow playing over the sculpture. We did see some other works as we went to see her, so she wasn't the only sculpture we saw.
Next it was off to see the paintings. We walked along to see the Mona Lisa, negotiating our way through the crowds of people going just to see her. Pity, as they missed seeing some beautiful works by other artists. We finally got to see the Mona Lisa, surviving the crush. Kathy has decided that she is “just a cold and lonely lovely work of art”.
Well, wouldn't you be if you have to live behind that bullet proof glass?
Off next to see what else we can see. We saw some beautiful pen and ink sketches by a French romantic artist we hadn't come across before. There were lots of other Renaissance works by Michangelo and Raphael,
and early Renaissance works by all sorts of artists,
including Fra Angelico. Our favourite room was the Rubens room.
Ah, there's just so much to see.
Napoleon is miserable (Napoleon est malheureux)
After getting our art gallery fix we walked through the Jardin de Tulleries
Matt, with one of the locals...
and along the Champs de Elysee.
The lower part of the avenue was a construction zone as preparations were put in place for Bastille Day. We walked up to the Arc de Triomphe,
where we stood in a queue for ages in the heat of a subway to buy tickets to go up the Arc (and it turned out later that most of the people in the queue didn't even go up the Arc – they could have got in for free!).
The underside of the Arc
But it was worth it for the lovely views along all the avenues which radiate out from the Arc.
'ello, 'ello....
But it was hot up there. Back down at ground level, and we were hot, thirsty and hungry. We wandered back down the shady side of the Champs de Elysee and found a great little brasserie for lunch a couple of blocks back, called Le Victoria. We had the same entree, of a beautiful beef carpaccio with basil – with more champagne, of course and endless glasses of water. Matt had delicious duck and Kathy had a beautiful chicken salad – and more rose. We sat and savoured, and then back to the hotel.
via a statue of Charles de Gaulle
We stopped along the way for a drink in the sun looking across the Seine and watching the world going past.
Back at the hotel, shower and a change in to something less sweaty. We stopped in a Belgian beer cafe for a drink (while Matt drooled at the steak being devoured at the next table), then across to the Left Bank for dinner. Kathy had found a recommendation for a place called Cafe de Flore, so we decided to head there. And we were glad we did. We walked along Sant Germaine past heaps of other cafes and brasseries. We had more champagne (Dom Perignon!!), with beautiful olives, then Matt had the most fantastic cheese platter (Roquefort, a washed rind cheese and the most amazing oozy brie) and Kathy had more foie gras, then a tarte citron. We drank beautiful red wine, then Matt had a Hennesy and a Remy Martin and we both have coffees. Yet another beautiful meal, and a fantastic way to end our trip to Paris. We walked back to the hotel and took our last photos of the Pont Neuf at night.
Notre Dame
Ah, we can really understand why people fall in love with this city. We've had a fantastic time – and the Parisians are more friendly than some had led us to believe, especially if you make an effort to speak at least a little French.
Saturday 9th
Homewards. And we found a cafe where we should have had breakfast rather than having it at the hotel. D'oh! Still, live and learn.
Off to the airport, and the trains didn't try to kill Matt again – but Kathy came acropper on an escalator at Charles de Gaulle when the people ahead of her stopped at the top of the escalator, and she got pushed in to their luggage. She had a toe nail ripped off by the forward motion of the escalator pushing her in to the bag. And they looked at her as though she was to blame!
There were very long queues to check in and to get through immigration and security. Our flight was late getting away because a US Airways flight that was going from the gate next to us was delayed by nearly an hour with late passengers.
Back home eventually, dinner at Cibos and home. What a fantastic holiday, and a brilliant anniversary.
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